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justwait
Joined: 23 Apr 2010 Posts: 11
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Posted: Sat May 22, 2010 1:58 am Post subject: 4-H Depoe Bay, Oregon Dome Subterranean Research Center |
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The 4-H Self Reliant Club of Depoe Bay has taken on the project to build an “Off the Grid” Dome Solar Greenhouse that will grow vegetables all year long. They have chosen to use Mr. Hobbit’s SHCS concepts.
They have acquired the land and finances to design, test and build a series of Domes to determine how to accomplish this at the lowest cost.
The plan is to build a 22 ft Dome, improve the design, then build another 22 ft Dome, improve the design and keep repeating the process. It is planned to build up to 10 Domes.
The temperature is mild in Depoe Bay, Oregon. The Average temperature in January is 33.8 F and the average temperature in July is 57.6 F. There is not a major need for cooling, but heating.
The 4-H Club has its own backhoe and front-end loader tractor; so digging will not be a problem.
The project will be trying different designs. Our first design thoughts are:
1. Eight plenums, with every two (2) plenums with 6 tubes.
2. Each set of two (2) plenums and 6 tubes are laid out in four (4) circles, with diameters of 22, 18, 14, and 10 feet. Each set of tubes is one (1) foot above the other and 2 feet apart.
3. One high speed in line fan will be exhausting the plenums. The fan will be varible speed with dampers to able to change the CPM for each circle for testing.
4. Three (3) temperature sensor strings will be install between each set of circles to monitor the temperature of the earth between the circles.
To help to determine the correct CPM, we had to developed are own spreadsheet.
We invite all to share their knowledge and imagination as we enter the final stages of planning and begin construction of the first design.
Since this is a research project, we plan to take post pictures, designs, and test results as the project moves forward.
Any experience, ideas, comments or questions are welcome about our design.
Last edited by justwait on Mon May 31, 2010 12:58 am; edited 2 times in total |
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mrhobbithhnet Site Admin

Joined: 09 Jan 2006 Posts: 313 Location: Talent, Oregon
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Posted: Sun May 23, 2010 12:04 am Post subject: |
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justwait,
Great project! Glad to see you here, working out the details.
First up, I've never seen anyone do a series of circular rings, each with it's own plenum set. That should help resolve a number of issues wrt to a balanced flow through all tubes and maximizing the tubing/mass exposures.
The problem still exists where the top layer of tubing in each plenum series will be the favored flow (it's the closest to the fan...) effectively starving the flow through the bottom row of tubes You might be looking at one of the plenums being a pair of 6 inch boxes with the fan in one, the tubes in the other and a connection at the bottom. That way you could, say, blow in one plenum top, and feed to, say, the bottom of the other plenum, pressurizing from the bottom. Then the corner to corner layout of input and output to the tubes/plenum is established.
I can also see there only being a need for a double set of plenums opposite the floor space when the tubing lengths are long. The shorter runs could have the input and output plenums back to back on one side only. Looking at the largest diameter (max tube length of 35' or so), I'd say that you only need one set of plenums per ring.
With a system like this using many small fans rather than one large one, you also have a opportunity to explore some VERY cost effective fan selections. The small a fan gets, the more affordable they seem to be wrt to the cost per cfm.
There is a possibility that you could cross connect all of the inputs to one master plenum across the plenums on one side and then 'tune' the flow to each ring with adjustable dampers. If you did that, you'd have an amazing opportunity to change the mass/air flow ratio dynamically or on an ad hoc basis through each ring just by changing a damper... creating more flow based on the soils ability to absorb more heat (ie: the perimeter ring will probably cool faster than the center ring, so could get more air than the center ring) If you had a fan in each plenum, and they were variable speed (dc brushless computer fans are I believe?), then you could control their on/off and speed operation with a small PLC with temperature sensing inputs. Then you'd have perfect control of max heat exchange and power conservation (should you be thinking of running the whole thing solar with a small array and battery pack (for night running) - more on that, 'cause I do believe you can set up the plenums to do the night heat exchange without running the fans simply by opening the tubing to the frost flow at night)
Looks like a great project, and I'm glad to have the opportunity to keep an eye on it. Good luck... and seeing how Depoe is on my way, more or less, to Portland and Eugene, you might see me drop in too. That would be great if it's possible... _________________ Just because it looks that way doesn't mean the Universe is about us, you or me. It's about Life.
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justwait
Joined: 23 Apr 2010 Posts: 11
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Posted: Mon May 24, 2010 1:39 am Post subject: Equal Air Flow |
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I am a little confused, as I understand your concept, the objective is to get the highest temperature air and most humid air flow through all the tubes at a speed that would allow the maximum transfer by lowering the dew point and by normal heat transfer.
I now understand and agree that the plenum series closest to the fan will always be favored. This brings up a whole series of questions.
1. How does one get the airflow at an equal rate through all of the tubes in ANY system without dampers?
2. If it is possible to change the fan speeds, is it better to have the rate at 2 CFS or higher at 4 CFS?
3. Is the optimum rate of CFS a function of the length of tube?
4. If the air is being pushed at rate of 2.53 CFS with a tube circle 13 ft long and spending 5.12 second in the tube, is that as effective as air being pushed at a rate of 6.52 CFS with a tube circle 33 ft long and spending 5.05 seconds in the tube?
5. Does it not make any difference of how long the air spends in the tube?
We are recruiting only teenagers to become 4-H members for this fall, so they can learn this technology by doing. We will not be breaking ground until September or October. We would welcome you and anyone interested to come and visit the project when ever it is convenient. |
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Hex
Joined: 27 Dec 2006 Posts: 204
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Posted: Wed May 26, 2010 6:03 pm Post subject: |
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Hi John and Justwait,
I like the alternative tube layout, it looks like it should be quite flexible in terms of control. It`ll be interesting to see how well the airflow behaves with multiple plenums.
I settled for the single intake central plenum with multiple 360 degree horizontal outlets to take advantage of the aerodynamic shape of the dome but mine is a lot smaller than 22ft Heightwise there probably isn`t a lot of difference, i have about 10ft overall height with the kneewall and ring foundation. You plan to build 10 domes? i wish i had the space.
Wishing you the best of british for your dome/shcs project. |
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mrhobbithhnet Site Admin

Joined: 09 Jan 2006 Posts: 313 Location: Talent, Oregon
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Posted: Wed May 26, 2010 9:02 pm Post subject: Re: Equal Air Flow |
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Good questions... I'll see what I can do.
| justwait wrote: |
1. How does one get the airflow at an equal rate through all of the tubes in ANY system without dampers? |
You will have to look at some of the latest system layouts, it will make sense for you. The basic idea is two manifolds with equal tubes lengths between with the input manifolds and outlet manifolds at opposite ends of the system and plenums at opposite ends of the manifolds (plenums are at opposite corners of the layout). The air passage through any one tube will have the exact same feet of manifold and tubing to pass thru. This the standard low pressure air flow system you see also demonstrated in a car radiator using water.
| Quote: | | 2. If it is possible to change the fan speeds, is it better to have the rate at 2 CFS or higher at 4 CFS? |
Yes, and encouraged. IF you had feedback sensors and an intelligent controller, you would be using only enough electricity to move what can be collected effectively (more in the midday than at the end and start of the day) A simple analog circuit with two speeds would probable pay for itself in a larger home gs, and mandatory for large commercial scale ghs.
Also, until one has operated any system at varying temp/speed scenarios, you really have no way of knowing where your 'sweet spot' is. Providing for some sort of simple variable speed option up front allows you to see what your system is doing and therefore find the best speed to run it at different times of the day (measure air temp and rh in and out and then calculate lbs of water in the air going in vs lbs of water out - tells you condensation rate which is directly related to heat exchange rate)
| Quote: | | 3. Is the optimum rate of CFS a function of the length of tube? |
It has a bearing... but the temp/rh analysis will ultimately be the best way to tell you what fan speed to use. At this point, pre-determining the optimal length isn't possible with my wee, wee brain and lack of systems designed for analysis. For now, our ad hoc analysis of systems designed for analysis shows us that 35'-50' foot is a decent enough range to maximize fan efficiency, air exchange rate, and heat exchange rate. If shorter, not as much heat by condensation transferred due to low contact times and small mass volumes but good fan performance so you can increase the exchange rate with affordable high fan speeds. Longer, much higher heat exchange efficiency underground but less time above ground so less overall performance without boosting fan speeds beyond good performance costs.
| Quote: | | 4. If the air is being pushed at rate of 2.53 CFS with a tube circle 13 ft long and spending 5.12 second in the tube, is that as effective as air being pushed at a rate of 6.52 CFS with a tube circle 33 ft long and spending 5.05 seconds in the tube? |
Best to shoot for adjustable builds so that you can tune by measuring temp/rh data after the install and adjust accordingly. To get a bead on the optimal CFS, seems to me it has to be matched dynamically with the soil mass and % of time the air is in the greenhouse. Excel wizards might get some headway with that... but for me, all I can offer you is to trust that the 35'-50' length with 3 layer 18" OC spacing underground with 5-20x exchange rates seems to have satisfied all comers to the game. With a system that is build to the mid range of that, and adjustable, you should be able to keep your ROI on 12 month frost free operation in zone 4 to about a year. If anyone gets to the bottom of how to pre-design for 1 or 2 x better than that, then we here are all ears... and, essentially that's why this site is here, not really for bottom line answers, but as an experimenters cheat sheet to a passing grade in effective common sense 101.
| Quote: | | 5. Does it not make any difference of how long the air spends in the tube? |
Absolutely. Too fast, nothing happens. Too slow, it's not in the sun long enough to heat up. 5x per hour has been shown to be minimum for decent ROI... and systems have been engineered for thesis doctorates that indicate effectiveness increases all the way up to as much a 20 x per hour with 50' systems (and hi-brow feedback suggesting 35' would work fine too). Once again, you have to balance fan performance with effective gains before getting all weirded out shooting for NASA scale efficiencies... remember, you'd be advised to NOT make love efficiently, just make it effective and ultra low stress to be happy. If you get your nerd on too much, you could find yourself designing a system too scary to replicate, afford or be considered very practical. There is a point where tech solves issues we can live with, and a point where it creates more issues than we can live with.
| Quote: |
We are recruiting only teenagers to become 4-H members for this fall, so they can learn this technology by doing. We will not be breaking ground until September or October. We would welcome you and anyone interested to come and visit the project when ever it is convenient. |
I'd be happy to run up there then. Post the particulars here or send me a link. I've got some projects in Arizona percolating, ready to pop this summer, and might beg off, but the genuine desire is here - it'd be about time someone close to my current home got serious with the systems that demonstrate some possibility of being used for research for a change. YOU could be the clearing house for positive directions for SHCS to go from this point on... I've held this for close to 20 years now, and it's essentially in the dark ages still. I just takes the marriage of science, scholastic backing and big enough vision to get to the bottom of it all.
The Chinese have virtually enshrined SHCS as the winter food answer in some of their northern regions, and we are still whistlin' dixey around nuclear power and foreign/offshore oil to solve our food 10 calorie in/1 calorie out 'problem'. I thing we have the will now to do better. Glad to see you've been fortunate enough to have the where withall to step up to the plate. I applaud it...
You should be considering an iButton two wire sensor grid if you really want to make this a high quality research project. Air speed and 25 temp and RH dynamic IC sensors in strategic places will give you all the data you need for virtually any wizz kid to hammer out some real good definitive extrapolations. At as low as $5 a piece for ic sensors and low cost system boards out there, you could easily set up an online access web site with all the real time data there for the world to drool over. Throw in a few webcams, and you'd still be way less than $1000 to be online in a seriously cool way! I don't know how, just about, these systems, but some of my fellow explorers have come to me with that kind of where withal. No reason why you couldn't manage it easily if you had a sponsoring tech product firm on board. _________________ Just because it looks that way doesn't mean the Universe is about us, you or me. It's about Life.
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justwait
Joined: 23 Apr 2010 Posts: 11
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Posted: Thu May 27, 2010 5:58 am Post subject: temperature sensors |
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Based on your suggestions, we will be adding temperature-sensing tubes. (see above diagram) between all the circles. Our present idea is to have a number of capped plastic tubes place vertically spaced half way between each of the circles. These tubes will be have the ability to be uncapped at the top and have a temperature sensors place to any depth up to 3 feet. The temperature sensors will be move from tube to tube and circle to circle to monitor the earth temperatures between the circles as we change the speed of the fans.
Some questions we would appreciate some input:
1. What distance should be between the sensing tubes?
2. Should we monitor each half of the circle or the whole circle at a time?
There will be running four (4) fans, one per circle. Each fan can be independently controlled. These fans can be turned on/off based on temperature or humidity.
1. Is better of turn the fans on/off based on temperature or humidity?
2. In what sequence? |
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mrhobbithhnet Site Admin

Joined: 09 Jan 2006 Posts: 313 Location: Talent, Oregon
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Posted: Thu May 27, 2010 7:57 pm Post subject: Re: temperature sensors |
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| justwait wrote: | | Based on your suggestions, we will be adding temperature-sensing tubes. (see above diagram) between all the circles. Our present idea is to have a number of capped plastic tubes place vertically spaced half way between each of the circles. These tubes will be have the ability to be uncapped at the top and have a temperature sensors place to any depth up to 3 feet. The temperature sensors will be move from tube to tube and circle to circle to monitor the earth temperatures between the circles as we change the speed of the fans. |
The basic info you need is the air temp along the length of the tubes and the soil temp at various spacings and depths between the tubes. Single dipsticks as you suggest will only give you soil temp gradients. What you really need for analysis is the air temp and RH changes and just the soil temp changes along the length of the air tubes.
As a wild ass guess at how to accomplish this I'd be monitoring with three 4 sensor strings fished into the stacked air tubes and three sets of two additional 1/2" thin wall irrigation poly conduits laid out in the soil between the tubes. You could install all the 1/2" conduit with fish lines in them so you could fish your sensors strings in and out to move them around. You would move the sensor strings around till you have your whole system data for analysis, then just leave in one position based on what you discover you need to monitor for normal day to day operations, say just the medium length circle's air tube and soil zone. You'd fish a four sensor string down an air and a soil conduit tube with one sensor near the outlet and inlet and two spread out between. This way you get a chance to read the dynamic changes as the air temp and soil temp changes underground. When done with an analysis, just leave them in one spot for dynamic controls.
| justwait wrote: |
1. What distance should be between the sensing tubes?
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Using sensor strings as suggested, you'd have one in each air tube, a set of another three about and inch away in a conduit in the soil and another set in the middle between two circles. I'd do a set of conduit in the soil like this at all three levels at a number of locations.... say one set on the outside of the outside circle, and a few on each side of one of the middle circles. This way, you'd be able to set up a test pattern that is analyzing any one of the air tubes dynamic performance over the day and the seasons. And you'd be able to pull them out for testing different zones at a time. The air tube sensors would be temp/RH pairs, and the soil strings would just be temp sensors.
| justwait wrote: |
2. Should we monitor each half of the circle or the whole circle at a time?
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Only one half would give you all you need if done as suggested.
| justwait wrote: |
There will be running four (4) fans, one per circle. Each fan can be independently controlled. These fans can be turned on/off based on temperature or humidity.
1. Is better of turn the fans on/off based on temperature or humidity?
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You'd have one sensor in the gh to enable the fans... using temp alone. And some RH sensors in the gh too just for data collection and/or to control misters.
| justwait wrote: |
2. In what sequence? |
You could use the string sensors in the air tubes and soil as feedback controls for a system control. Air temp would enable the fans, air tube and soil temp sensors would then be used to modulate the fans based on an algorithm determined to get the most heat exchange with the least fan power.
If you were to go with a simpler analog data collection, I'd be using soil temp dipsticks as you suggest and a few air and RH sensors in the gh and some you can move around at the inlet and outlets of air tubes. The soil dipsticks should be in the middle between two circles plus one at the perimeter, and some up against some of the air tubes. You'd need that to get an idea of the temperature gradient along the length of the tubes and at different distances from the air tubes. You wouldn't get the dynamic changes monitored inside the air tubes (critical to understand what is going on as the air changes down the length of each tube) but I suppose, if you fished a pull line into the air tubes during the install, you could drag some temp and RH sensors in there to get a one shot analysis to see what is going on down there. _________________ Just because it looks that way doesn't mean the Universe is about us, you or me. It's about Life.
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justwait
Joined: 23 Apr 2010 Posts: 11
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Posted: Sat May 29, 2010 3:09 am Post subject: Fan Controler |
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Hi John
1. We are going to take your suggestion and install three (3) temperature sensor strings between each set of circles at all three levels. We will do it for only ½ of each circle.
2. To do testing on different CPM vs the earth temperatures as measured by the sensor strings, we are considering use a high-speed variable speed fan to exhaust the four (4) circles with a damper to control the airflow for each circle. (see diagram above)
Any opinion? |
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mrhobbithhnet Site Admin

Joined: 09 Jan 2006 Posts: 313 Location: Talent, Oregon
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Posted: Sat May 29, 2010 4:13 am Post subject: |
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justwait,
Looks good...
Glad you see the sense in some cheap thin wall 1/2" poly irrigation tubing for conduit. Be sure to fish some string into your air tubes too so you can fish some sensor strings in there too. Just be sure you install the conduit with good long sweeps and no tight kinks when you bring it all up to the surface and you'll be fine ($20 for 100ft). I use that stuff fishing CAT6 LAN cable all over the place, works fine. The trick is to fish a pull line into it before the install, don't kink it and then pull your sensor strings in with a little wire pulling gel. To do a real cheap analog system, you can use just cheap K type thermocouples and 8 wire thermostat cables to wire 4 of them all up in one string you can pull into place.
If you are going to be doing manual damper adjustments, then you really have to get a manometer for air speed measurement. You can get yourself a handheld instantaneous wind speed, temp and RH meter from Kestral and you're set with an ad hoc monitoring system. You got anyone on your team with HVAC savvy and experience? They'll get the picture....
If your soil is more or less porous, you would be better off pushing the air in with a single blower and connected manifolds. That way the tubes are pressurized and some of the gh air can infiltrate past the tubing and into the soil and condense out directly in the sub soil area for a little bit better heat exchange. Not to mention that squirrel cage fan blowers are typically designed to work best as pressurizing devices, not suction devices.
If your project gets some tech backing and funding, you can exchange all of the analog for digital and go for a real time digital online monitoring and logging setup later - assuming you already have the wiring conduit in place. That would be sweet! Someone could do a nice grad-level thesis with that one...
The real advantage with a bunch of small fans on each circle is that you have a chance down the road to do real simple computer controlled automatic feed back controls to change the fan speed and air speed during the day and the season. A single fan leaves you with a single source of air and expensive damper controls if it turns out automated variable air speed settings is really going to make a big difference.
But for simplicities sake, and to just get some research data a single fan would get the job done with less up front design time and expense. Just experiment a bit and find the fan and damper settings that work for you and you are good to go. And you won't have to get involved picking up on digital control circuits... that is a time and money sucker even if you're a fast learner.
And another thing, I do believe you only need fan housings on one side of the circles... with the input and exhaust back to back. No use splitting it all up with a lot of real short pipes and twice as much assembly rigmarole.
BTW, it's not CPM, it's CFM (Cubit Feet per Minute) _________________ Just because it looks that way doesn't mean the Universe is about us, you or me. It's about Life.
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Last edited by mrhobbithhnet on Wed Jun 02, 2010 7:01 am; edited 1 time in total |
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justwait
Joined: 23 Apr 2010 Posts: 11
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Posted: Sat May 29, 2010 7:41 pm Post subject: Umbrella/Berm concept |
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John, thanks for your comments
We agree with you about finding some grad student or developer to design, conduct, and record the results of our dome experimenting. We will be approaching Oregon State University to try to find a grad student to work with us.
All of the first dome’s control system will be manual while we try to find relationship between air flow, temperature, relative humidity, length of tubes, distance between tubes, size of the tubes, etc. We are rethinking about making the size tubes in each circle different maybe one circle with 3” tubes vs 4” tubes. Another consideration is making the distance between the circles different, for example 1 ft, vs 2 ft, vs 3 ft, vs 4 ft. As we determine these relationships, we will be looking for a firm or individual to develop a digital control system that would use these relationships to optimize the running of a dome.
Our next design objective is to explore the placing of underground our umbrella/berm arrangement. The umbrella can create a huge subterranean thermal reservoir that soaks up the sun’s energy during summertime and stores it for winter heating. Hopefully the dry earth under an insulating/water-shedding umbrella could store enough free heat from the summertime to warm the greenhouse through the entire winter. The umbrella is made with plastic sheeting and Styrofoam. The exact combination of sheeting and Styrofoam is still being investigated.
We will place an umbrella/berm arrangement over the north wall and the top of the dome. The hot air will be taken from the top to the dome and run outside of the dome, under the umbrella/berm, to each circle’s plenum. There will be four of these tubes. (see above)
Another umbrella/berm arrangement is planned for the dome foundation.
The foundation will made by pouring a 24” high “paperfoamcrete” wall with a treated 2 X 6 bolted on top for the dome to sit upon. We will place an underground umbrella and berm on the outside to this wall. This umbrella/berm arrangement will drain the rain away from the dome. Under this umbrella/berm arrangement 2 more circles of 6 tubes will be place. These circles will be outside of the dome, 3 feet deep, but under the umbrella/berm. There length of the tubes will be 40 ft and 46 ft. The purpose of these circles is to vent and store the excess heat during the summer. These two circles will be on a thermostat that only is used when the excess heat in the dome needs to be vented to the outside.
Opinions?
Last edited by justwait on Mon May 31, 2010 11:49 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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mrhobbithhnet Site Admin

Joined: 09 Jan 2006 Posts: 313 Location: Talent, Oregon
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Posted: Mon May 31, 2010 6:58 am Post subject: Re: Umbrella/Berm concept |
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| justwait wrote: | John, thanks for your comments
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Always appreciated my friend...
| justwait wrote: |
We agree with you about finding some grad student or developer to design, conduct, and record the results of our dome experimenting. We will be approaching Oregon State University to try to find a grad student to work with us.
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Take advantage of that... they might be planning their courses now, and green greenhouses is a big topic now. Call it GreenXGreen...
| justwait wrote: |
All of the first dome’s control system will be manual while we try to find relationship between air flow, temperature, relative humidity, length of tubes, distance between tubes, size of the tubes, etc.
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Great, it can get done easily that way, just be sure to put in lots of instrumentation conduit and good plan to change it all out if some real hot shit grad needs a humdinger of a project. You'll need lots of paper work to interest them, so don't go off to them half cocked. Be sure to go to my DelivertheRing site here for some of my brain drool and ooze.
| justwait wrote: |
We are rethinking about making the size tubes in each circle different maybe one circle with 3” tubes vs 4” tubes. Another consideration is making the distance between the circles different, for example 1 ft, vs 2 ft, vs 3 ft, vs 4 ft. As we determine these relationships, we will be looking for a firm or individual to develop a digital control system that would use these relationships to optimize the running of a dome.
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At first thought, that might make sense, but to tell you the truth, we've been up and down that tree many a time. That makes it easy for you... so... just stick with the tried and true 2' OC displacement of the tubes, and stick with the 4" slit perforated ADS. We've tried 3" and 6" and been disappointed with the results we thought we'd get. The 4" ADS was the winner by a long shot. The displacement layout is just simple science - heat travels through high mass fairly predictably - about an inch and hour - so that factor is mute as well. Any more than 8" of soil for a UACTube to work with, and it's a waste (you are not going to be sucking up heat for more than 4" in the winter anyway) ADS at 2' on center gives you 20" of soil (10" around each tube) for a plenty good enough thermal flywheel in the winter, and better edge for summer cooling.
Things that are unknown though are the heat exchange dynamic itself wrt to phase change scenarios above and below ground. And that is a huge playground to get up to your ears in science and tricked out telemetry. There are a lot papers available to the College crowd with mathematical models of how these SHCS's work, but they are in locked down file repositories only available for cash or via alumni access to university subscriptions. They've had it all wired to a tee, but NO ONE is demonstrating optimized builds based on real science and testing of mathematical models. My Files site has the Chinese 1980's work thoroughly written up, check it out, it's impressive just how much math they threw at the problem. Thankfully they didn't lock their findings up like the universities do here.
So, for best bet on variables to build in, it's air speed in the tubes, air exchanges per hour, mass to volume ratios, FPSF perimeter and frame insulation, direction of air in the tubes (reversing designs - some ideas here and other reversing ideas for hoophouses here and domes here.), fill material used, variable speed fans, computer control with web access... the list goes on. As for a lot of this, a simple insulated trench with a few sensors and controls can sort out a lot of this, you'd be the first to work the dynamic of concentric circular UACT. I've got a lot more to share squirreled away online, on my harddrives and on the drawing table, so keep bangin' on my Round Door... only interest outside of myself warrants making most of it available. Besides, it takes time and money to get the word out... neither one of which I have much of.
| justwait wrote: |
Our next design objective is to explore the placing of underground our umbrella/berm arrangement. The umbrella can create a huge subterranean thermal reservoir that soaks up the sun’s energy during summertime and stores it for winter heating.
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I used to think that you could store summer heat for winter growing... it's a bogus thought unfortunately. No merit whatsoever. Here's the deal - if you have no light in the greenhouse in the winter, you will grow nothing. Ipso facto, if you want winter growing, you must have good light or it's not worth bothering building a heated space. If you have good daytime light in the winter, you WILL have plenty of energy to get you by that night. You only need to store enough heat to get by the occasional cloudy day. The trick is to store every ounce of that heat during the day in the winter and store it underground in the gh with good perimeter insulation and night covers. You only need a small thermal flywheel to do this - as long as you are taking in what you need during the day, you will be able to manage at night. If you can keep maybe a total of just 2 weeks of extra btu's to get over the odd cloudy day, you are set. The fact is, it's what you do with the sun during the winter day that is far more important than imagining you can store summer heat for winter use. The numbers just never work out that way. There's plenty of mass/heat in the right design to get frost free winters just on the daily gains of a winter. That being said, there is a great good deal of sense in expanding the SHCS out beyond the perimeter of the growing space - assuming you need to and can justify the expense. Keep one thing paramount in mind though - if your gh gets weak light in the winter it will NOT be a growing concern, therefore why fuss with storing heat... there won't be anything getting enough light to grow anyway.
| Quote: |
Hopefully the dry earth under an insulating/water-shedding umbrella could store enough free heat from the summertime to warm the greenhouse through the entire winter. The umbrella is made with plastic sheeting and Styrofoam. The exact combination of sheeting and Styrofoam is still being investigated.
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Check out the Frost Proof Shallow Foundation specs here. All you need to do is put a few inches of foam under a bit of cover around the perimeter out a few feet to double the mass to store heat in and prevent bleed out at night.
| justwait wrote: |
We will place an umbrella/berm arrangement over the north wall and the top of the dome.
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Be careful there, if you block too much sky light you will kill your chances of growing anything in the winter. Don't let the old literature fool you - the best quality growing light in the winter is from the sky, not from the sun. You get heat from the sun for sure, but in the winter the light reflecting off the atmosphere above you is much, much higher quality (the atmosphere is thinner to light when coming from above you, so this reflected light is higher quality. The low sun angle means the sun is going through 5 times more dust and debris laden atmosphere to get to your south facing glazing, so it's poor growing light) The best idea, proven time and again, is deploy-able night curtains or covers with as much full skylight grazing exposures as you can get during the day. If you have more than 1/3 of your roof framing opaque you will have a good solar heater in the winter that won't grow worth a hoot, and you'll have hot damn summer shake and bake gh that won't either. LIGHT is the key, design for as much as you dare with just little wee opaque insulated framing on the north... dream up some night curtains instead.
| justwait wrote: |
The hot air will be taken from the top to the dome and run outside of the dome, under the umbrella/berm, to each circle’s plenum. There will be four of these tubes. (see above)
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We've found that a good SHCS with the kind of air exchanges needed moves so much bloody air, that the 'getting from the top' thinking only applies if your gh is REAL high. We've done smoke tests in 18' gh's, and it's clear that you churn up the air so much that it hardly makes sense to put big ole tubes up to the top. They just cost you and block light...
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Another umbrella/berm arrangement is planned for the dome foundation.
The foundation will made by pouring a 24” high “paperfoamcrete” wall with a treated 2 X 6 bolted on top for the dome to sit upon. We will place an underground umbrella and berm on the outside to this wall. This umbrella/berm arrangement will drain the rain away from the dome. Under this umbrella/berm arrangement 2 more circles of 6 tubes will be place. These circles will be outside of the dome, 3 feet deep, but under the umbrella/berm. There length of the tubes will be 40 ft and 46 ft. The purpose of these circles is to vent and store the excess heat during the summer. These two circles will be on a thermostat that only is used when the excess heat in the dome needs to be vented to the outside.
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Give what I said about "summer heat stored for winter use" scenario... With extra UACT outside of the perimeter, you'll find that it only helps in the summer for cooling. There isn't enough heat in the winter to charge it all. Better off, once again, maximizing the gain underground during the day, and preserving it at night is the best bet. That's what a good FPSF is all about... and night curtains or covers...
| justwait wrote: |
Opinions?
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Yep, you might say I've a few hard earned ones. You will too when this is all said and done... _________________ Just because it looks that way doesn't mean the Universe is about us, you or me. It's about Life.
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justwait
Joined: 23 Apr 2010 Posts: 11
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Posted: Mon May 31, 2010 11:48 pm Post subject: Confused |
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As we examine the your above CAD diagram, we are now confused. We have proposed a concentric circular UACT system with 6 tubes each with a separate fan from the intake plenum to the exhaust plenum, which is across the circle, with a Total Tubing Effective Area SQFT= .45 (see above Plan A)
We think that you have proposed a concentric circular UACT system with 3 tubes each with a separate fan with the intake plenum and the exhaust plenum back to back with a Total Tubing Effective Area SQFT = .22 (see above Plan B)
Are you proposing a system with 12 tubes, with a Total Tubing Effective Area = .91
As you know the Total Tubing Effective Area SQFT effects the fan CFM we use.
Can you clear up our confusion? |
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mrhobbithhnet Site Admin

Joined: 09 Jan 2006 Posts: 313 Location: Talent, Oregon
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Posted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 4:53 am Post subject: Re: Confused |
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| justwait wrote: |
Can you clear up our confusion? |
Possibly, and in the process hopefully you can clear up mine...
For starters, you'll have to explain the Total Tubing Effective Area term you are using. Is it the inside surface area of the tubing in question... or perhaps something else.
Is the tubing layout as expect, 4 concentric rings of 3 tubes stacked on top of each other?
Are you trying to blow into one plenum and exit out the other... essentially trying to get a perfect manifold built so that air just 'happens' to have a balanced flow to each side of the circle?
In my diagram, there are two fans that run intermittently off of a flip flop relay like you'd find powering a garage door. Each time there is a call for a fan to come on, the opposite one that was running in the previous call will run. The two fans, one in the middle, and one at the north perimeter, in total run as much as one would have to run to move the same amount of air.
When there is a call for cooling or heating, a fan comes on (say the middle one) and it's air flow swings a damper at it's mouth open with air pressure. The damper changes position to allow air to go down the plenum and is built as two 90 degree paddles such that when the vertical part in front of the fan kicks it up, the horizontal part flips back and blocks the opening above the fan discharge. At the other fan, the damper is in it's default gravity held position blocking the fan outlet and leaving the plenum exit open above. The next time the fan circuit is enabled, the flip flop relay delivers power to the opposite fan. This time the north fan comes on, flipping it's damper up and blows the air in the opposite direction exiting at the middle of the gh.
By reversing the flow, the hottest air introduced at both ends of the circle is meeting relatively cooler soil because the air has been moving in the opposite direction before hand. This will lead to larger differentials between air and soil temp over the seasonal operation and that will lead to better heat exchange. And you get twice as much running time out of fans because they only run half as much. In a small system, 10-15 years of running, the upfront cost of two small lazy running fans is fine, because you have to buy another one later anyway (when they cost more). Your are very lucky to get more than 5 years out of small blower fans running all on their own.
This arrangement works essentially as the concentric stacked ring of tubes as you've drawn on the right. There is essentially a fan at each of the horizontal manifolds and the air direction depends on which one is on, the center one moves the air CCW, and the north one moves it CW. There is a set of back to back vertical tube manifolds at each concentric circle of tubes and all of the tube manifolds are tied together at their tops with another set of manifolds, one serving the CW (west vertical tube manifolds) and one the CCW (east vertical manifolds) flows.
Definitions of manifold on the Web:
* a pipe that has several lateral outlets to or from other pipes
Definitions of plenum on the Web:
* Chamber for moving air under a slight positive pressure to which one or more ducts are connected.
So, in this case we have two sets of vertical manifolds, one set of horizontal manifolds and together they can all be called a plenum.
If you have a digital camera around, try some pix of pencil sketches if you want more detail then your digital art provides. I'll try digging into that ole file and see what I can do to make it clearer what's happening with a typical reversing ring plenum.... assuming you don't come up with something that no one's ever done before. It happens...!!
Like it just did - I had a minute so I did whipped out some more paperspace pix of that model:
Two Fans with two Dampers - fan blows damper up when on, blocking an air passage above it. (Two fans can be on the same manifold - when one fan is on the damper blows up and the air blows by the other past the damper that is normally down)
 _________________ Just because it looks that way doesn't mean the Universe is about us, you or me. It's about Life.
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justwait
Joined: 23 Apr 2010 Posts: 11
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Posted: Mon Jun 07, 2010 3:25 am Post subject: |
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| Quote: | | For starters, you'll have to explain the Total Tubing Effective Area term you are using. Is it the inside surface area of the tubing in question... or perhaps something else. |
Yes, you are right, the term we used “Total Tubing Effective Area” is it the inside surface area of the tubing in question as used in your Subterranean Heating and Cooling System Calculator.
| Quote: | | Is the tubing layout as expect, 4 concentric rings of 3 tubes stacked on top of each other? |
Yes, we are planning 4 concentric rings of 3 tubes stacked on top of each other.
| Quote: | Are you trying to blow into one plenum and exit out the other... essentially trying to get a perfect manifold built so that air just 'happens' to have a balanced flow to each side of the circle?
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We are trying to blow into one plenum and exit out the other and get a perfect manifold built so that air just 'happens' to have a balanced flow to each side of the circle.
| Quote: | YOU WROTE THAT -The problem still exists where the top layer of tubing in each plenum series will be the favored flow (it's the closest to the fan...) effectively starving the flow through the bottom row of tubes You might be looking at one of the plenums being a pair of 6 inch boxes with the fan in one, the tubes in the other and a connection at the bottom. That way you could, say, blow in one plenum top, and feed to, say, the bottom of the other plenum, pressurizing from the bottom. Then the corner to corner layout of input and output to the tubes/plenum is established.
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To solve this problem we are thinking about manual dampers in each of the 6 tubes. We would “tune” and set the dampers permanently to insure the airflow though each of the 6 tubes at the same speed.
Thanks for clearing up my misunderstanding about 3 vs 6 tubes. Our objective is to build 380 square feet of a subterranean dome greenhouse only using solar power at the lowest fixed cost and as most efficient as possible. Although revering manifolds could possibly be better, we are staying away from automatic dampers and more complicated manifolds. We will be using more tubing, manual dampers and lower speed fans.
We have found 12v 200 CFM fans at $25, dampers at $2.00 and are still researching pricing the ADS tubing. If you know of any less expensive sources, we would appreciate any input.
We have questions about venting. We know we have to change the air in the greenhouse 5 times per hour.
Does that means 5 times the volume of greenhouse has to be replaced with fresh outside air?
Or
Just move the air through out the greenhouse 5 times per hour?
Although it is cool on the Oregon coast, our research shows, at times, it will get to over a 100 F in the greenhouse. We are investigating a Thermally Actuated Vent Damper system that opens when the temperature gets to a certain limit. Instead of putting vent windows in the top of the dome, the Thermally Actuated Vent Damper would open when the temperature reaches a certain limit, we would vent the greenhouse air straight to the outside.
Do you have any experience with this type of Thermally Actuated Vent Damper System? |
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mrhobbithhnet Site Admin

Joined: 09 Jan 2006 Posts: 313 Location: Talent, Oregon
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Posted: Mon Jun 07, 2010 3:11 pm Post subject: |
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Justwait,
No time to answer fully, on the road now. You've got some of the details pretty mixed up in your thinking. Sorry if there isn't enough on the site of a quality to make crystal clear for you.
But some of your questions and conclusions indicate a real need to reread the SHCS explanations OR I've got the descriptions all wrong (likely possible in some areas but not in the basic stuff)
For starters, the air exchange rate always refers to how much gh air is moving underground... a 5x exchange rate means there is 5x times the volume of the gh moving through the SHCS every hour. THis is the minimum to get a decent ROI BTW... not the design goal. ROI increases all the way up to 20X. I would be designing for a max up there in the 20X rate and comfortably able to do at least 10X.
I'll have more time online in a few days when I get back home... _________________ Just because it looks that way doesn't mean the Universe is about us, you or me. It's about Life.
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